Mutton Dressed as Lamb: The Musings of a Birthday Girl

Such an awful phrase, considering that certain ages are no longer represent what they once did when our parents were young, and yet at times it just seems it's so fitting. And seeing as my birthday has just passed (yesterday), it's a topic that's kind of on my mind. Especially as I creep ever closer to that dreaded 4-0.

You can find examples of it all over the city, at least I can: mature women who are either raiding their teenaged daughters' closet when they clearly should not be, or still desperately clinging to the same look they had a decade or two ago as an attempt to relive those glory days. This is by no means of condemnation - I myself often look in the mirror and wonder 'am I too old to pull this off?'. Fortunately I happen to be blessed with good genes (oily skin in your youth can be a good thing, as it turns out) that makes me look younger than I am, and a particularly vocal nine year old who will be the first to question what's going on with my makeup or clothing. Because he's far more critical and conservative than I am, there are some instances when I'll dismiss him as a Puritan. 

But most of the time, much as I'm loathe to admit it, he's spot-on.  

If you aren't as 'lucky' to have something similar in your life, there are ways that you can do your own self evaluation. A word of warning: it involves complete honesty, bright light and a hand held mirror, preferably with a magnification side.

1. Take a good, hard look at yourself in natural light: This isn't an easy thing to do, believe me. But every now and then it must be done. It's the only way you can determine if your foundation is still the right shade and texture for your face. If it's patchy and powdery spots, that's an indicator that you need something with more moisture. That's an easy fix - simply blend equal parts moisturizer and liquid foundation in your hand before applying to your face. This will also thin out the texture of the foundation, which can cause other issues as one's skin ages. You don't want to look like you're wearing a mask. Foundation that is slightly sheer is less likely to cling to fine lines that can form around the nose and lips, and on the forehead. It's also easier to blend if it so happens that it's a bit too dark for your skin in the winter months - a quick check of the jawline will give you the answer. If your face is a different colour than your neck, it's not the one. 

2. Focus on the eyes: It's still amazing to me how quickly you can take years off a face that's wearing too much dark, heavy eye makeup and replace it with more flattering matte tones. A common trap that most of us fall into is doing the same thing makeup-wise day after day - partly out of habit, partly because you aren't really sure what else to do. For some, that trap can stretch on for decades. In effort to avoid such a fate, I encourage all of you to take an hour to yourself and just dig through your makeup case. Pull out those colours you never thought you'd use and just give 'em a shot. You never know, right? For best results, invite a friend or two over so that you can have a second opinion. Perspective is key. So too is a matte texture on an eye that's starting to show signs of aging; a product that has too much shimmer will cling to even the finest of lines, and make them all the more noticeable. And I'll go out on a limb and guess that is not the look you're going for. 

3. Lip Service: A general rule of thumb when it comes to makeup is the lighter the lipstick, the more youthful the look. Darker lipstick can often lend a pallor to the skin if it's the wrong shade for your skin, while bright lipstick can just scream that you're trying too hard. That last one is an offence of which I'm most guilty of, but I've decided to say screw the rules - my lipstick is my signature. But I am conscious of the need to switch it up from season to season. Feel free to do the same. And by the same token, you may want to give that pink nude shade you got as a gift with purchase and promptly tossed to the back of the vanity drawer a shot. You never know, it could be a new favourite waiting to happen. Just be careful of going too light on the lips - you don't want them to disappear entirely, nor would you want to look like you're single-handedly trying to bring back the Swinging Sixties.

Most women I know have a few random unused makeup items kicking around, either through a promotion or an impulse buy, that they've never used. Why not take a chance and try something new, or better yet - gather a few of your friends with the same problems and surplus cosmetics for a New Year's makeup party? After all, this is a season of self reflection and goal-setting for the year, so why not extend those same principles to your makeup? 

2012

2007

And with that, I will leave you with a little then and now of yours truly. Each picture is certainly a snapshot in time in their own right, and I hope it demonstrates the point I've been making all along: time marches onward, and no amount of black eyeliner is going to change that.

Monday Moments in Makeup History - The 1940's

It is true what they say: you really can find inspiration anywhere.

Watching the Indiana Jones marathon today gave me an idea. Not that Harrison Ford was a hot piece back in the day or how it was more than a little far-fetched that an archaeology professor would be so adept with a bull whip, but it got me thinking how beautiful 40's era women were. At least, the way they were portrayed in films, that is. It got me thinking about the various looks that were popular in the past, and that maybe these deserved a post of their own.

Hence, I give you Monday Moments in Makeup History.

Nothing says understated glamour like the classic beauty of women from the 40's. Perhaps it was because, for the first time in history, they were expected to go out to work as well as keep the home while the majority of the men were off fighting in World War II. These women were the hardworking heroes of the everyday, ones who still took the time to put on some lipstick and do their hair.

Veronica Lake

The look can be characterized by red lips, subtly defined eyes, well-groomed but not overly plucked brows and a soft rosy complexion. I've included some examples of how it was done, both in Hollywoodland and in the real world.

Ava Gardner

I also came across this great post from Tart Deco which features scanned pages detailing how to recreate a 40s Pinup look from Vintage Face, a book that is now sadly out of print. Both Tart Deco and Glamour Daze are great reference sources for creating vintage makeup, so if that's your thing these are definitely worth a visit.

Glamour Frugaliste Fall 2011, Final Look: Plumage

Givenchy Fall Makeup 2011

One beauty trend that made the transition from spring to fall is the bold, colourful eye. It's just been made a little smokier for fall, a little sexier in shades like gunmetal, navy or teal. There were some definite Gothic influences in some of the shows and seen here in Givenchy's fall makeup collection, but my current status of recovery will not permit me to get so dark. However, other designers chose to carry on with the rainbow brights, such as those brilliant orange lids that pranced down the runway for Jeremy Scott.

Jeremy Scott, Fall runway look 

Even though I love all of the looks I created like they were my firstborn, Plumage has to be my absolute favourite. Inspired in equal parts by the flapper and the peacock feather, even going so far as use guinea feathers in place of false lashes, it was so much fun to create. And if you follow the directions below, hopefully you will have just as much fun as I did!


For the Eyes: Using a large shadow brush, apply Black Velvet (matte black) all over the top lid and smudge lightly along bottom lid, concentrating most of the colour at the lash line and fading up to just below the crease of the eye. Layer Malibu (vivid blue-green) over top and bottom lids, over the original shadow and extending above the crease, building up colour to desired intensity. Wash Full Bloom (pale shimmery green) over the entire lid and into corner of each eye, using a fluffy shadow brush, up to the brow. Finish with two to three coats of black mascara. 


Tip: Black and other deeply pigmented shadows can be tricky to control, so avoid making a mess by laying a tissue underneath the eye to catch any wayward colour from falling where it shouldn't. 

For the Cheeks: Working in a circular motion, apply Sweet Tart (pink with gold shimmer) with a blush brush in the hollow of the cheeks just beneath the bone.

For Lips: Apply Diva (brilliant fuchsia pink) all over lips; top with Upgrade (pearlescent fuchsia gloss) for additional shine.

And finally, The Lashes: You could always use regular false eyelashes, which I'm sure would work just fine, but to really get the full effect you really do need the feathers. Guinea feathers, like the ones used here, can be purchased from most fabric and notion supply shops. 


To apply, choose or trim the desired size feathers from the set, then seal any loose feathers at what will be the 'base' using eyelash glue. Once dried, apply more glue to the 'base' using a Q-tip and apply to the top lid as you would regular lashes. Hold in place at least 30 seconds until the glue is fully dried.

Glamour Frugaliste Fall 2011, Look #2: Femme Fatale

Tom Ford Fall 2011

If it's drama you're after, then look no further. There is nothing quite as dramatic - or fabulously over the top - as heavy black liner paired with brilliant scarlet lips. This look not only stalked the fall runways, but continued their dominance in the September magazine issues. The best examples can be found on the models featured in the fall campaign offerings from Tom Ford and Kate Spade. To quote The Spice Girls: The lady is a Vamp; she's a vixen, not a Tramp. In other words,  a woman after my own heart. 

Bryce Dallas Howard for Kate Spade

 I think it goes without saying that this is not your average daytime look for the office, and might be better saved for a cocktail party or gala event. However, there is something to be said for taking a risk... 

Anyway, here's the breakdown, regardless of how or where you intend on wearing it.

For the Eyes: Start with Black Velvet (matte black) applied with a damp smudger brush across the top lashline beyond outer corner of the eye, adding a slight wing at the end. Smudge the colour further up lid to just below the crease, whilst maintaining that sharp line at the lashes. Tip: the benefits of using a powder shadow damp as opposed to a liquid or pencil liner are that you have more control over the intensity of the colour result, and it lasts longer on the face - pencils are made of waxes that melt in heat and liquid liner will run if you tend toward watery eyes (which I do).

Wash Buttercup (buttery yellow with shimmer) liberally over entire lid beginning from base of browbone, using a fluffy shadown brush, building colour till the desired amount of shimmer is reached. Finish with LOTS of black mascara.

For the Cheeks: Dust Go Go Boots (plummy peach-pink) lightly on the apples of cheek working back into hairline using the cheekbone as a guide.

For Lips: Apply Seriously (a true glossy red) with a brush, blot with tissue then dust with Invisible Blotting Powder before applying a second coat, for added staying power.

Random sidenote: When I finished this look and started taking the pictures, I was struck by the oddest sense of deja vu. I know that this is a very retro, Moulin Rouge type look, but it's exact inspiration remained elusive. Until I realized what song had been running through my head the entire time...

 What's new, Buenos Aires...

What do you think? Is there a resemblance, be it ever so slight, or is it just me? 

Glamour Frugaliste Fall 2011, Look #1: The New Naturelle

I don't believe in the all natural look, mostly because I don't see much point to it - if you're going to wear makeup, then just do it. But I have to keep telling myself that this is not about me, and that other people might not want to channel their inner Drag Queen or Vegas showgirl all the time. 

Burberry Fall 2011

Valentino Fall 2011

Nude, 'no-makeup makeup' looks were all over Fall runways, most notably at Valentino and Burberry. This look is exactly what its name suggests: natural, but in a new and modern way. Neutral, fresh and almost universally wearable, with a touch of shimmer here and there to add interest and depth. 

Interested in how you can achieve this look on your own? Well then - read on, dear Reader... Read on!

For the Eyes: With a large shadow brush, apply Discreet (a soft taupe brown) all over top lid from corner to corner, then lightly smudge shadow into bottom lid between the lashes using a smaller brush if necessary. Sweep Buttercup (shimmery yellow) from top inner corner up to just beneath brow bone using a fluffy shadow brush until two colours are blended. Apply a single coat of mascara.

For the Cheeks: Using a blush brush, after first tapping excess onto the back of your hand, dust Spring Forward (muted peach-pink) liberally into the hollow of the cheek, just under the bone, in a circular motion. Repeat until desired colour intensity is achieved, using the extra blush you've shaken onto the back of your hand; it's easier to add colour then it is to remove it.

For Lips: Apply Feline lipstick (a warm pink with gold shimmer) either straight from the bullet or with a lip brush; finish with Disco lip gloss (sheer coral) in the centre of the lips.

Dermalogica Up Close: Fall Makeup with Diana Carreiro

I would love to be able to say that apotheKerri beauty is all I do. Hopefully, someday soon, I'll be able to do just that. Until such a special and magical time occurs, my real-life job is at Dermalogica Canada. And trust me, it certainly does have its perks!

Demonstrating a colourful eye
on TO Beauty Reviews

In addition to being able to 'model' for skin care treatments using the #1 professional skin care brand in the world, you occasionally get invited to such fabulous events as last Thursday's Dermalogica Up Close media and blogger event. It was a much different set-up than the usual, with three seminar topics going on in different rooms. I had the good fortune (well, not really, since my co-workers are well-aware of what my business and first love) of being assigned to Diana Carreiro's room, where she talked about and demoed some upcoming makeup trends for fall.

About to give The Glitter Geek
a red lip she won't soon forget

For those of you who may not be familiar with the name, if you have read any Canadian fashion magazine or even just walked by and noticed a cover in the past, oh, twenty years or so, then you will most definitely be familiar with her work. Ms. Carreiro is Canada's preeminent makeup artist whose career has spanned an incredible twenty-seven years. It’s not every day that you get to sit in on a presentation with the artist that made you – some shy little country girl who barely survived by flipping through fashion magazines such as Flare and FASHION - dream about growing up to become a makeup artist. Basically, it’s an opportunity to learn from the Master that one cannot afford to miss.


But before I continue to gush about my admiration for Ms Carreiro and completely embarrass myself in the process, here are some of the key looks she demonstrated for the coming season:

Flushed at Marc Jacobs

1. Rosy cheeks: Applied low and bold on the cheeks – closer to the hollow than the apple – for that just-in-from-cold look.

Browheavy at Carolina Herrera

2. Strong brows: Perhaps the more controversial of the trends, for me at least, the well-groomed yet tomboyish brow is back once again. And it will be a cold, cold day in hell before you see it on me.

Silver eyes at Chanel

3. Metallics: Where, you might ask? Eyes, lips, nails… if you can name it, you can dust it in shades of gold, silver or gunmetal. Just please, not all on the same night – you’ll end up looking more like a disco ball than anything else.

Blue-eyed beauty at Dior

4. Colour on the eyes: A continuation of the bold, colour block look that was so hot for summer, the colourful eye becomes a little more sassy with unexpected oranges and pinks or a little more sexy with smokey blue.

Scarlet lips at Gucci 

5. Red Lips: Although it seems like this is a perennial fall trend, this season you can have whatever shade or texture of red that floats your boat. Happiness!


So there you have it - five major makeup trends for the upcoming season. Question is: which one will you be rocking this year?